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Thursday, April 28, 2022

Warning!  This post is really really long. I didn't collage the photos because I wanted to leave them big so I could see the pictures better. My photo journal is something I do for myself, so I decided to post all the photos I loved the most. So just be warned this is really long.
Catching up with our trip to Africa
We had scheduled our trip for September, but decided with the Covid Delta variant that we should postpone it.  We were not so much worried about getting it, but were afraid that we might get locked down there. So once we felt things were doing better and we had our booster shot, we rebooked the trip for January. 
Finally we were on our way after covid test #1.  Masks were required on the airports and on the planes. 

It was a 20 hour flight with a stopover in Amsterdam before landing in Johannesburg for a few hours sleep before our flight to 
Victoria Falls.
John does not sleep well on airplanes. His doctor gave him some sleeping pills to help him sleep.  Before going, he tested them out and didn't think they were strong enough. Well...when we arrived into Amsterdam and found our gate, he decided it was time to take his pill. Unknown to me...he took TWO!  I suddenly noticed he was sitting in the seat in the waiting area and his eyelids were fluttering. I asked him what was going on, he mumbled something to me about being sleepy. He held up his hands and he was shaking and he was pulling at his fingertips. Then his eyes went shut and he would not wake up. I got him awake enough to get him to answer that he had taken two pills instead of one.  I really panicked, wondering if he was having a stroke or something.  I didn't know what to do, should I call emergency and miss our flight, should I just let him sleep. I finally explained things to the agent and asked if she would get assistance helping board him when it came time.  She said that if he could not walk on, he would not be permitted to board. I agreed with that, I had to know he could wake up and that it was not something serious. By then everyone around us was noticing. I forced him to wake up and told him if he could not walk, he could not go. A man next to us helped me pull him to his feet. He could barely move, it was as if he had weights in his shoes. It took three agents to hold him up and direct him to the plane. They verified with me over and over that it was not alcohol or other drug related. They had dogs sniff us before we could board. They got him to his seat and he conked back out for the flight.  We spent a few hours in a hotel in Johannesburg and the next morning, he had no memory of any of that!!  He says he will not be taking those pills again!
Finally, after covid test #2, we were at Victoria Falls! It was pretty amazing to see the spray from the falls from the airplane!
A driver picked us up and took us to a boat ramp where our safari guide met us. We had to go by boat to our lodge. As soon as I was on the boat, I joked with our guide "I don't see any elephants..." He replied that he had seen some on his way to pick us up. I was sure he hadn't really. But we had barely gone any distance and there in front of us, beside the river was a real live elephant herd! What a way to start the trip!
We were given the best room on the island, right at the point, and had an amazing view of sunrise and elephants on the shore.
 We had a butler, Mathias who made sure everything was perfect. Obey was the manager. They greeted us every time we returned by boat.
Victoria Falls River Lodge
Our room was so perfect!  Way more than I expected. There was even our own soaking pool on the deck. 




As soon as we were settled into our room, we headed out on our first  safari with our guide Blessed. 
First thing, we saw a hippo on the shore and more in the water. They were everywhere. 






We took a boat safari, either in the morning or evening each day there.
The shoreline was full of so many animals, mostly birds. I was so excited to see so many kinds of birds without it being an actual birding safari.
crocodiles

white faced whistling ducks
open billed stork

one of the birds I most wanted to see! 
bee-eaters!!!
black ibis
spotted thick-knee
white-crowned lapwing
trumpeter hornbill





double rainbow
weaver nests
goliath heron
white browed coucal

Did I mention hippos?
spur winged geese
sacred ibis
Egyptian geese
Meals were always top notch. Always way too much food.
Breakfast always started with a plate of fresh fruit, a basket of warm rolls, fresh made juice and latte. And then we were expected to order a meal to go with it! Always seated outside by the river with monkeys in the trees.

Here are a few sunrise photos from our room.



We woke up to the sound of hippo grunts.
Here are the elephants we watched from our deck.



I spent so much time watching these two playing in the water.
There was a telescope in our room that we put to use.
There were some cute little monkeys on our island. They roamed freely and even enjoyed our upper deck. One day, one of them was tapping to get in our patio door.



sausage tree
Once a day we also took a land safari. I had not expected to see so many big animals at Victoria Falls. Mathias and Blessed made sure and loaded up drinks and snacks for each trip.

Impalas (with an ox-pecker on his back)
Blessed called them McDonalds. I thought it was because there were so many of them like fast-food. But turns out it is because they have a black mark on their rump like the McDonalds golden arch.

Zebras It was awesome to see so many in the wild.

Pied Kingfisher
Baobab Tree
and elephants...so many and so close! unreal to see them like that









male and female KUDU

weaver nests and African Golden Weaver
lilac breasted roller

Giraffes!

ring-necked vulture

wart hog
Red-billed hornbill
African Gray Hornbill

Black backed jackal

Hippo watching at the riverside for Sundowner

elephant tracks
cheetah tracks
hippo tracks
And finally, the whole reason we are at Victoria Falls...
THE FALLS!!!
We walked along the whole trail to see all the observation points of the falls. The map below names the largest falls, we have now been to all three!





In some places, the spray from the falls was so thick you could barely see the falls.




This is the bridge between Zimbabwe and Zambia. The Amazing Race had a bungie jump from here on one of their episodes.
We ended at a viewpoint for lunch overlooking the river. They have zip lines there, but no takers while we ate.
The national flower of Zimbabwe.
Flame Lily
One of the largest and oldest Baobab trees.
My caddie John.

Before and after the falls. 
So much spray!


Boat ride back from safari



Chuck the baby crocodile. John spotted him on the bank by our lodge. He stayed there for a couple of days. It just cracked the staff up that he named him.

When we arrived, there was a welcome note from the staff and a certificate for massages. We saved them for our last day. Pretty nice, in a little hut right on the Zambezi river.

Room service lattes on our deck the last morning.
Mathias and Chef Leo

Covid test #3 passed and ready for Tanzania.

Getting to Tanzania was not a simple process. Just like we had to go through Johannesburg for a night before getting to Victoria Falls, we first we had to fly to Johannesburg, then we took a flight to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia before our final destination of Kilimanjaro, Tanzania. Because of covid, airlines had cancelled the amount of flights and it was really hard and super expensive to find a simple one. We ended up on the fastest, but it required a red-eye flight and a layover in Addis. But we finally made it!
Our first two nights was in Arusha at the Siringit Villas. It was such a fancy place, right on a golf course.



 The first night there were 4 men from Holland that were there to play golf. One of them was the original owner of the lodge. He is an architect and it was built for his family. The next morning they were gone and we had the place to ourselves, just like we had in Victoria Falls. 
First thing, John decided to get a shower. He grabbed his bag and suddenly realized it was NOT his bag!  Even though we had handled that bag so many times for inspection and into our jeep we had not noticed it. Upon arrival to our lodge, it had been taken to our room for us. It took us 1/2 hour to drive back to the airport, turn the wrong bag in and retrieve his bag, then 1/2 hour back for John to get his shower. 
We spent a day and a half just relaxing by the pool, walking the golf course, taking bird photos and eating. They set us up in the garden for lunch, by the pool for dinner and wherever we wanted for breakfast. 
Dickson, Chef Ombeni, Joshua

Lunch in the garden.
Morning latte by the pool.


It was surprising that there were impala and dik-dik roaming on the golf course. Dik-dik are tiny, less than knee high deer-like animals with the hugest eyes.



mongoose

So many birds! and incredible weaver nests!

The ones that look like humming birds are called sunbirds. There were different colored ones around. Most I had not seen before, weavers, barbet, and the ones with the long gray tails are Go Away birds, because they don't stay around very long. Most I didn't know the names of, but it was so nice sitting in the garden or by the pool watching the different ones fly in. 
I thought this was Mt.Kilimanjaro, but it was a different less famous one called Mt. Meru. Kilimanjaro stayed behind clouds while we were there.
The drive through Arusha was an eye-opener. A huge city with animals right alongside of vehicles, women carrying anything you can imagine on their heads (I saw one woman with a huge coffee table on her head!), bikes and motorcycles loaded down with somebody pushing the load along, carts loaded with fruit, people in native clothing, babies tied to their backs and Maasai huts. I tried to get photos, but most of them are in my mind only.
















Our driver, Joseph, took us through Tarangire National Park. What a great day! We saw so many animals. Even though we had seen them in Zimbabwe, it was new all over again. I think Tarangire National Park is my favorite. Such an amazing amount of animals there!
Oxpecker on an impala, see the 'M' on his rump?



waterbuck...they call it a toilet seat mark on his rump.



Secretary bird

First lions!!!

I wonder what happened to this guy's ear?
Dik-dik
Warthog family
Superb Starling
White-headed Buffalo Weaver
I could have watched those baboons for hours!






The giraffes here are so brightly colored.
Our lunch stop overlooked a valley full of elephants.
We continued our game drive before stopping at the Tarangire Treetops for two nights.
Our tented room was raised up on stilts into the treetops.




The main lodge is built around a baobab tree. The trunk is right behind the registration desk.  Bats live in the trunk and fly out at night. It was an amazing sight to watch as hundreds of them took flight right through the lodge!
A few 'hung out' in the lodge for the day. 


The watering hole was lit up at night so we could watch the animals come for a drink.


John picked up a stomach bug the second night in Arusha, so by our first night in Tarangire, he was doing pretty bad. I got him some meds, but they didn't help. I ended up having my meals by myself and went on a full day game drive while he tried to recuperate.
A Maasai boma and the guy below, Mungu, was assigned to walk me back to my tent each night after dark.
I did feel bad that John had to miss the safari, but wow!  It was my favorite day! Not because he wasn't there, but because of all I saw!
It was a full day with lunch out there too.
The Maasai are always herding their cattle. This guy stopped us and asked for water. 
LOVE Birds!!!
Kori Bustard
White-bellied Bustard
A huge tortoise


Magpie
Brown Snake Eagle





Storks and Pelicans

Monitor lizard...about 3 ft long
Cattle egret


Hadada Ibis and  Blacksmith lapwing
Sacred Ibis with White-faced ducks
Black backed jackal
First leopard!!!
Gray Crowned Crane


female Reed buck
African Fish Eagles
Yellow-billed stork
Hamerkop

different patterns and colors on the giraffes
saddle-billed stork
second cheetah!!!

Lions!!!

Southern Ground Hornbill


Wildebeest 


banded and dwarf mongeese





We came upon a huge group of baboons

the babies were having a good time dropping from the branches

Termite mounds are HUGE! and everywhere!
When I returned, John was not feeling any better, so I went to have dinner on my own again. Instead of seating me at the table by the pool like the night before, the put me at a table in the Boma. I was glad that another couple had just arrived, so I was not sitting out there alone. A special Maasai barbeque had been prepared along with a traditional performance.  When they started shouting, John could hear it all the way back at out tent and was so sad that he was not up to seeing whatever was going on. He sat and listened while he sipped his clear broth soup alone in our tent. 


All this food just for me...and dessert too!


The next morning, we loaded up for our next adventure. Everyone was there to send us off.
John still wasn't feeling good, even after the lodge had given us some strong medicine, so our first stop was a pharmacy. It was the craziest pharmacy we have ever seen! We drove up, immediately our jeep was surrounded by women wanting us to buy their jewelry. A woman came out of the building and our driver told her what we wanted. I showed him on my phone what Jessi had told us to ask for  and she left. A few minutes she came back out with it. It was only $5!!! for a week supply! When I asked our driver if that was the right price, he asked "Is that too much?!" We laughed so hard and told him it would not have surprised us if it was $50. The photo below is the pharmacy.
The drive to Lake Manyara was full of sights.


If you look closely, you can see the huge earrings that the women wear. 




One picture that stands out in my mind is a  picture I didn't get to take. As we drove out to the main hwy, we traveled on a dirt road for about 1/2 an hour. We went through Maasai property past their huts and herds. We came upon a huge mud puddle. There beside it was a woman doing dishes in the muddy water, her child beside her was only about 6 and had a baby strapped to her back. It really stuck with me as we drove past. I sometimes think those are the 'photos' that are the most important that stay in our minds.





Lake Manyara
It was a mess. It is a salt lake and had flooded, killing all the vegetation which caused the wildlife to go elsewhere.  Joseph did his best searching for something for us to see, but it was a lost cause. We were his first clients since the beginning of the pandemic and he had no idea it was in this condition.

There were plenty of baboons to occupy me for a while.






We stopped for lunch overlooking the lake, you can see where the die-off is.
We arrived at Neptune Ngorongoro Lodge. John recorded it, but I can't get the video to upload here. The guy in orange started chanting and jumping in the traditional Maasai way as we unloaded.
Every lodge we went to, the staff greeted us with warm cloths to wash up. 

We had a two room suite! with a full deck

While we had dinner, they put warm water bottles in our bed, started a fire, put chocolates on the nightstand and pulled down the mosquito netting.



It poured rain the first night. When we arrived at the Ngorongoro Crater, the gates were closed because a bus had slid off the road and was blocking the way. By the time we entered, 2 hours later, the safari jeeps were packed waiting to get in. 





From the pile of jeeps waiting to get in and the long line of us bumper to bumper getting around vehicles that were stuck in the mud, I was expecting that it was going to be really crowded in the crater. Once we all arrived to the bottom, everyone just drifted in different directions and it was really nice.


The first thing we saw was black rhinos!!! I was so surprised that they just grazed right alongside of ostrich, gazelles, wildebeest and African buffalo!
It started out damp, but it didn't keep us from seeing all the animals we were there to see.
We spotted a hyena finishing off a carcass.




Marabou stork

Golden Jackal above and Black-backed Jackal below

Gazelle


This mama did not like this jackal by her young. 


We were there for the birthing season of the wildebeest.




Hartebeest

Eland

He didn't tell what we were headed to see, but Joseph got word on the radio, in Swahili, and off we raced across the crater. What a great surprise it was to find a mama lion with cubs! 







Joseph told us that lions take turns caring for each other's cubs. The others were resting that day. hahaha!

She finally stood up and paraded the cubs in front of our jeep and into the brush.



John had pre-arranged for us to have a catered lunch in the crater, complete with our very own toilet.


Of course, we were greeted with warm wash towels. 




I was happy that even though we were stopped to eat, the animals came to us. There were so many babies in this family of monkeys.







These are helmeted Guinea fowl.





From lunch, we headed out to the Hippo pool.
Masses of hippos there and really close too.












Not sure what the reason was, but there was a loud scuffle on one side of the pond. I love the look on the baby's face.







All day long I kept reminding Joseph that I really really wanted to see the flamingos. "Yep", he would say and that was it.
Finally, we got to the flamingos.
We didn't just see flamingos, we saw Greater and Lesser Flamingos.
Greater are lighter in color and bigger. The Lesser are more vivid.













To top it off...SPOONBILLS!!! 
I hadn't even thought about them being there.



and a pelican.
Then back to our lodge and another warm handwashing.

This is where we abruptly ended our trip to rush home to be with family after the horrible life changing news about Cyndi and Dan's plane crash. (see previous post about that) Time was so blurred right there at first, but little by little I have been able to escape the thoughts of it all and find some time out as I review our pictures in order to post it.